Before you can start drafting all the skirts you love, you first need the basic skirt block. From this skirt block you will be able to make all the variations you like 🙂
So let’s get started.
To start, you are going to need a large piece of paper. If you are buying paper, you are best to buy the plain brown wrapping paper otherwise you can use left over wrapping paper from christmas or birthdays.
Step 1: Taking your body measurements
For this pattern, you are going to need your waist, hip, length and wait to hip measurement. Taking your waist measurement requires you to measure around the smallest part of your torso, which should be just above your belly button. To measure your hip take the measuring tape and measure around the largest part of your hip, or bottom. This is usually around 20cm below your waistline.
Next you will want to take note of how far the distance is between your measured waistline and hip line. As mentioned, this is usually 20cm apart. But if your body measurements are less or more. Please note down your body measurements for the distance between waist to hip.
The final measurement is your skirt length. This is measured from the hip down.Write down your desired skirt length. For this tutorial I will be making the skirt length 40cm below the hip line.
Step 2: Drafting the Base
Now we have our measurements, it’s time to draw the pattern. Draw a horizontal line to mark the top of your skirt, then draw a vertical line down the center of the page. From the top horizontal line, mark your ‘waist-to-hip’ measurement on the vertical line and square left and right. Name this line, ‘hip-line’
Now that we have the hip line, we can start to draw the front and back of the skirt. From your hip line, measure down the vertical line to the length of your skirt. Mine is 40cm. Square left and right. Name this your hem line.
Patterns are made in quarters. The back of your skirt will be left of the vertical line, and the front will be on the right. Before you continue, you might want to add a couple of centimeters to the hip and waist measurements of your skirt. This will give your pattern a little bit of an allowance for movement. I am going to add 2cm to the hip and 1 cm to the waist.
Step 3: Time for some calculation
Step 4: Adding the Darts
The new vertical line from your waist line is the center of your dart. On the back of your skirt, we are going to create a 4cm dart. From the center of your dart, measure 2cm to the left and right. Now connect it to your hipline.
Step 5: Draw the waist line
Starting with the back of the skirt. Our hip measurement was 23cm. When we Minus the back dart width from the waist line, of 4cm this gives us: 19cm for the back of the skirt.The front hip width was 24.5cm, so when we minus the front dart of 2cm we have 22.5cm for the front of the skirt. Adding these 2 figures gives us 41.5cm. When we multiple that by 2, we get 83cm. Our measured waist line is only 69cm. So we need to take in the sides of the skirt.To do this we want to repeat our calculations we did to make the front bigger then the back by 1.5cm. If you remember we: divide our measurement by 2, minus 1.5, and divide by 2 again. Instead of using the hip measurement, use your waist measurement. This gives me 16.5cm (which is our back waist measurement).
Adding the 1.5 to the 16.5cm will give us the front waist measurement. Which is 18cm. Now we know that the back should only be 16.5cm after the darts have been closed. we simply subtract 16.5 from 19cm and this give us our side curve for the back. We need to bring in the back of the skirts side by 2.5cm. Repeat for the front (22.5-18= 4.5cm). Draw your curves by curving the line from your waist to hip.